Saturday, February 24, 2007

Amazing Andamans

Sunset over the AndamansIt was by chance that I decided to make a trip to the Andamans - a long weekend, total ennui and wanderlust making a fortunate combination.

The flight from Chennai to Port Blair was serene - the clear ocean below dotted with periodic boats & ships, a cirrus sky and bright sunshine. The Andaman Islands, when they appeared out the blue (literally), looked like a small patch of green land amidst a huge area of blue ocean. The weather, as we landed felt hot and sultry, even in comparison to Chennai.

Given my last-minute plans, I had booked myself into a "resort" (at least that's what it claimed to be) - the only available room in the whole acco scene of the islands. Interestingly, the "resort" consisted a few run-down rooms in the most god-forsaken area of the islands, complete with tarantula-sized spiders to share my bed.

Culturally, the Andamans feels like a part of Tamilnadu that drifted away - everyone speaks Tamil, every shop has a Tamil name and the auto-drivers seem like they've been plucked out of Chennai - the same fleecing and argument, anywhere you go.

Aberdeen clock tower The Aberdeen Bazaar and the adjoining Aberdeen jetty are the most prominent places in Port Blair. The tsunami seems to have destroyed all water sport facilities along the jetty - but as I understand, the facilities are getting rebuilt. From the jetty run periodic ferry services to all the other islands, including day-long boating trips to the popular tourist spots.

Overlooking the jetty is the beautiful Ross Island. A remnant of the British rule of the islands - the British had their administrative base here - the island is now a well preserved museum. The most beautiful aspect of the island is the breathtakingly clear waters that surround it. It is, by far, the most picturesque beach location I have been to till date - the pebble ridden waterfront, palm trees drooping in from the coast, the crystal clear waters and the matching skies - it was just a sight to behold. Ross Island

Another must-visit place is 'Corbyn's Cove' - an islet in main island of Port Blair. The approach road is a delight, running along the sea from Aberdeen Jetty for a few kilometres with wonderful sights all along. The beach is a great place for a dip in the sea, with the underlying surface remaining a plateau for quite a distance, and with calm clear waters. They also have pretty neat changing rooms.

Cellular Jail AndamansThe Cellular Jail adjoins and overlooks the Aberdeen jetty - and is an imposing structure. The sound and light show run in the evenings here is a well conducted piece, highlighting the ugly history of "kalapani" in colorful detail.

There are quite a lot of islands that comprise the Andaman and Nicobar belt, but the most well known and well visited ones are Ross Island, North Bay, Viper's Island and Havelock, apart from the main island. North Bay is primarily a place for snorkeling - I had a fun time seeing the underwater corals of different shapes, sizes and colors; but one needs to be careful of getting fleeced, the pricing is arbitrary and one can negotiate almost any figure based on one's skill. Viper's Island has nothing on it but a hangman's noose - so do not bother visiting. Havelock is the farthest - and I didn't have the time to make a visit - but I hear it's probably the best and has wonderful beaches - will probably try to make it some other time.

For others intending to follow my trail: The flights need to be booked well in advance, since most of the time they are fully booked. Arranging accommodation is a pain, with most places booked months in advance ; and even amongst the ones that exist, almost all are run down shacks. So if you want a great experience, do not hesitate shelling out more for the premium ones. If possible, book ones on M.G.Road, near the centre of town. Most tourist facilities in Port Blair are closed on Sundays and Government Holidays, so you'll be sorely disappointed if you land there on a weekend - so include a weekday in your itinerary. Try and hire a tourist cab for traversing the town - Port Blair, despite its deceptive size on the map, is well spread out and ambulating about, like I did, may leave you exhausted at the end. And finally, December to March is the best time to visit the islands.

8 comments:

Mischord said...

I'm beginning to suspect that u r shifting to tourism!

Abhinav said...

Well,getting a last minute reservation is the last thing you want to do.

"and even amongst the ones that exist, almost all are run down shacks"

Quite not.I am not sure what kind of hotel were you staying in but I lived there for the three years(the last three years to be precise) and I never encountered a tarantula-shaped/size spider.Or maybe you are talking about the spiders with small bodies with long legs and if you are,then don't manipulate the whole thing.

Anyways,I am pretty sure the hotel I stayed in or atleast saw,were quite normal ones.A bit cheap as compared to the normal Delhi or Mumbai standards and a bit slow but they were quite good.

"every shop has a Tamil name"

Eh?really?

A fact I had like you to know.The water sport facilities weren't many prior to the Tsunami.Just water scooters and power boats.Reconstruction talks are on since a really long time,so don't read much into it.

The point you make about North Bay is quite a good one.I feel North Bay is starting to become like Goa with prices in accordance with foreign fares and no care the indian ones.A very nice photo of the Aberdeen tower as well.From the looks of it,you took it after a short rain spell or maybe it's the lighting.

By the way,which hotel did you stay in and what part of Port blair was it in?

Vasant said...

Chaitanya: Ha ha. I wish ;)

Abhinav: On the spiders bit - I clearly am arachnophobic, so I might just be delirious about it ;)

The hotel, I don't want to name - but it was high on the list of hotels available online.

Btb, I recently went there again (will blog about it in another post) and stayed at a pretty decent new place on MG Road, so guess the experience differs by location

The Unadorned said...

It's a very informative topic. I've experience of staying at Port Blair for almost three years between 1995-1998 and I can really find it interesting.

By the by, I've written a Short story book, wholly devoted to Andaman and Nicobar Islands and Mr RUSKIN BOND has written foreword for it.
Please visit my site http://remixoforchid.blogspot.com to know more about my effort and comment on it.
Thanks.

Sincertely
Nanda

Travelpaisa said...

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Arun Visweswaran said...

You really missed something at Havelock. We stayed 4 days at Havelock and spent only a day in Port Blair.

Shabz said...

Nice article. You do write well. I was brought up there and lived 20 years in those beautiful islands. So, to clear a few facts:
Compliments to Abhinav for pointing out a few things I'd have commented on. Thanks.
Lets not discuss Tarantula again or the "run-down sacks" or 'Tamil names' 'coz that has been done by Abhinav.
Corbine's Cove is a pseudo-spot created for tourists. It is good only when you want to deceive yourself into thinking that you are in some foreign country. Neil, Havelock and Hut Bay have far more breath-taking beauties.
"Ugli stories of Kalapani"???
My favourite passtime while studying in JNR Mahavidyalaya (the college at the foot of hill housing Cellular Jail) was watching the sound and light show. It is the most beautifully presented show that tells us about the heroics of freedom fighters, their determination and their adrenaline-rushing patriotism. "Ugly" is not the word you want to use.
And the boat services, water sports and connecting ferries were always there.
Pl don't write 'Andamans this..' and 'Andamans that..' when you actually mean things about Port Blair. It is NOT a "mini Tamil Nadu" as you portray the islands to be. A&N Is. are actually known as "Mini India". As you move towards North, you see Total bengali culture, acres of paddy fields, people speaking Bengali, and shops with Bangla names. In Nicobar and South Andaman, there are many Punjabis and North Indians.

Vasant said...

Wow, what passionate perspectives this post draws!

shabnam: I used "ugly" to highlight the sort of stuff the inhabitants had to endure..i found it a little frightful. On the Tamil domination of andamans bit, maybe I was biased given my origins. But I take your point.